Jay Williamson
Personal Chef
Seattle, Washington
July 2008
Quinoa
The part of the quinoa plant that is almost always used in cooking is the seed. This seed is normally given culinary treatments as a grain. This "grain" is one of the best sources of protein among all cereal grains. In fact, it is one of the few foods that is considered a perfect protein, i.e., it contains all 9 essential amino acids. In addition to its protein qualities, quinoa is high in calcium and iron as well. Ivory-colored quinoa is the most common type of quinoa found in U.S. markets. I can also usually find red quinoa, but it comes in many other varieties, including black, which is considered the best-tasting variety.
In its treatment as a grain, quinoa can be used in cold salads, soups, pilafs, puddings, desserts, fritters, porridge, and many other ways. The seeds can also be ground into a flour that can be used as a gluten-free alternative to regular wheat flours.This flour is also used to make quinoa pasta. Its versatility is probably one of the main reasons I have become a quinoa "champion".
Most recipes using quinoa will call for a quick rinse of the seeds to wash away the bitter saponin covering of the seed. I have to found that to be unnecessary, however, as most domestic sellers have already done this rinse for you. I like to toast quinoa in the oven before I use it, and you won't be able to do this if you have just rinsed the quinoa.
Basic cooking method for quinoa: toast the grain for approximately 10 minutes in a thin layer in a 350 degree oven. The time will vary according to how thin the layer is. While this step of toasting the quinoa is important to bring up its flavor and give it a toasted nutty quality, you want to be sure to not over-toast the seeds, or they will fail to open when you cook them. Let the seeds start to become fragrant and just start to turn color - take them out of the oven at that point. Let them cool. Add the quinoa and cooking liquid to a pot. For every 1 cup of quinoa, you will want to use 1 2/3 cups liquid (be it water, stock, juice, etc.) Bring the quinoa and liquid to a boil, boil for 1 minute, reduce to a simmer, cover, and cook for 17 minutes. You will probably also want to use some salt with the quinoa, but be careful not to oversalt, as that will also inhibit the opening of the quinoa. When the quinoa has completed its cooking time, remove from the heat and keep covered for 10 minutes. Remove the lid and fluff. It is basically the same cooking method that you would use for rice. When the quinoa is cooked, the outer germ of the seed visibly opens up and twists outward, forming a tail around the enlarged seed.
You can buy quinoa online at Bob's Red Mill and Eden Organics.
Featured Recipe This
is not a quick dessert to knock out, but one that is well worth the
effort. I developed this dish when David and I were working on our year
of Argentine cuisine. INGREDIENTS
Quinoa Torte with Dulce de Leche Glaze
Kosher salt
1 tbsp. finely grated orange zest (from 2 oranges)
2/3 cup golden raisins
2/3 cup freshly-squeezed pulp-free orange juice (from 2-3 oranges)
1/2 tbsp. unsalted butter
3 large beaten eggs, at room temperature
3/4 cup whole milk
1/2 tbsp. pure natural vanilla
1 cup warm dulce de leche
Whole milk for thinning (if necessary)
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 cup sweetened coconut flake
3/4 tsp. table salt
1 tsp. ground allspice
3/4 cup sugar
-
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Lay the quinoa out on a rimmed baking
sheet in a thin layer. Toast the quinoa on the middle rack of the oven
for approximately 10 minutes, or until fragrant and starting to turn
color. Remove from the oven and let cool completely to room
temperature. Keep the oven on. - Use the butter to coat the bottom and sides of a 9 1/2" springform pan. - In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs, 3/4 cup whole milk, vanilla, orange zest, and 1/2 cup warm (not hot) dulce de leche. The dulce de leche should pour fairly easily when warm; if not, dilute it with a little whole milk. -
In a large bowl, mix together the flour, coconut, salt, allspice, and
sugar. Add the cooled quinoa and toss the quinoa with the dry
ingredients. Add the wet ingredients, the plumped raisins, and any
remaining juice left in the container. Mix together completely. Pour
1/2 the batter into the springform pan. Drizzle 1/4 cup dulce de leche over the batter in the pan. Pour the rest of the batter on top - this will get the dulce de leche marbled into the batter. If any dulce
is floating on top of the batter, pat it into the batter. Level the
batter in the pan and place on a baking sheet. Bake on the middle rack
of the oven for approximately 40 minutes, rotating the sheet halfway
through the cooking time. The torte is cooked when a toothpick inserted
into the middle comes out clean. -
Remove the torte from the oven and increase the heat to 400 degrees.
Poke about 20 holes into the torte with a toothpick, with the holes of
varying depth. Drizzle the remaining 1/4 cup dulce de leche
into the holes and over the top of the torte. Put back into the oven
when it is up to temperature and cook for about 6 more minutes, until
the dulce glaze just starts to bubble. Remove from the oven and
set the pan on a cooling rack. Let the torte cool in the pan. When
completely cool, remove the sides of the pan from the torte. Using 2
large spatulas, transfer the torte from the bottom of the pan to a
serving platter. Cut into slices and serve. Serves 10.
- Transfer the cooled quinoa to a
large pot with 2 1/8 cups water and 1/2 tbsp. kosher salt. Bring to a
full boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to low, cover tightly,
and simmer for 17 minutes. Remove from the heat and let sit, covered,
for 10 minutes. Uncover, fluff with a fork, and let cool.
- While
the quinoa is toasting, zest the oranges with a microplane zester to
get 1 tbsp. of zest. Set the zest aside. Squeeze the oranges to get 2/3
cup pulp-free juice. Combine the juice and 2/3 cup golden raisins in a
microwaveable container. Microwave on high for 1 1/2 minutes. Remove
from the microwave, cover, and let sit for 1/2 hour, to allow the the
raisins to plump.
June 2008
Smoked Oysters
Smoked oysters come in small tins packed in olive oil or cottonseed oil, usually. I prefer the tins with olive oil, as the oysters tend to be cleaner tasting. Of course, if you don't want the taste of olive oil in your dish, go with the cottonseed oil. The best way to use smoked oysters, however, is to buy them fresh or frozen from local producers. This will only be possible if you live near a coast, or if you have an exorbitant amount of money to spend on shipping. David and I bought locally harvested and smoked oysters on a trip to the Olympic Coast in April, and I brought them home to use in the following recipe. We could really taste the difference in this rendition versus previous attempts using tinned oysters.
Featured Recipe The
smoked oysters hold their own nicely in this sauce full of assertive
ingredients. Serve this sauce over your favorite starch - pasta,
barley, spelt, brown rice, etc. INGREDIENTS -
Heat a medium-sized, heavy bottomed nonreactive pot on medium heat.
When hot, add oil. When shimmering and hot, add garlic, pepper flakes,
and anchovies. Cook for 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Do not allow
the garlic to burn.
Smoked Oyster Puttanesca Sauce
4 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 tsp. red pepper flakes
5 anchovy fillets, minced
1 28oz. can petite diced tomatoes, with juices
1/4 cup capers, drained and rinsed
1/3 cup roughly chopped pitted Kalamata olives
4 oz. smoked oysters
1/4 cup chopped parsley
Sugar to taste, if necessary
Salt to taste, if necessary
- Add the diced tomatoes and stir. Bring to a
boil, reduce to a simmer, and cook for 15-20 minutes, or until tomatoes
are cooked through and tender.
- Add the capers and olives. Simmer
for 5 minutes. Add the smoked oysters and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove
from the heat and stir in the parsley. Check for acidity - if too
acidic, add sugar by the half-teaspoonful until correct. Check for
salt. You probably won't need to add any salt. Serve immediately.
Makes 4 servings.
April 2008
Rhubarb
To counter this quality, rhubarb is normally cooked with a certain amount of sugar, the amount depending on whether you are making a sweet dish or a savory dish. The sugar also helps to set the bright red color as it cooks. As you cook it, you should not stir it if you want the rhubarb slices to retain their shape; wait until it has cooled and chilled before stirring it. Of course, sometimes I want the rhubarb to cook down to a mass of pulp if I am making a sauce out of it.
Rhubarb is native to Asia. It is grown in fields and hothouses here in the U.S. Hothouse rhubarb can be found in stores year-round. It is pale red or pink with a less-intense flavor; field grown rhubarb is cherry-red with a more intense sour flavor (with a slightly sweet aftertaste), and it is usually less stringy. Field-grown rhubarb is generally one of the first "fruits" to appear in spring, with its season lasting from late March through May, depending on the locale. Which is why you see so many articles and recipes showcasing rhubarb in the month of April.
To this point, all of my ingredients of the month have been either exotic or little-known foodstuffs. Rhubarb is neither. (Although I recently read a blurb by a chef who encountered it growing wild at 14,000 feet in the Himalayas. Can't get more exotic than that!) Occasionally, it is more fun to talk about seasonal and local foods than the exotic.
Featured Recipe This
is really a classic use for rhubarb. The orange zest is really a nice
complement for both the strawberries and the rhubarb. The amount of
sugar you will want to use will depend on the ripeness of the
strawberries - if they are very ripe, use less sugar, unripe use more.
Also, if the strawberries are very ripe, leave them in larger pieces,
so that they will break down less in the cooking. 1 cup all-purpose flour -
Whisk together the 1 cup flour, 1/4 cup sugar, dark brown sugar, ground
ginger, and orange zest in a large bowl. Add the butter to the bowl.
Using your fingers, rub the butter thoroughly into the flour mixture,
working it until the mixture looks like cornmeal. Set aside. -
Bake on the middle rack of the oven for 20 minutes. Remove the foil and
rotate the dish. Bake for another 20 minutes, or until the topping is
crisp and just starting to brown. Remove from the oven and let cool for
30 minutes on a cooling rack before serving.
Strawberry and Rhubarb Crisp
1/4 cup sugar
1/3 cup firmly packed dark brown sugar
1/8 tsp. ground ginger
1 tbsp. finely grated orange zest
1/3 cup unsalted butter at room temperature
1 1/4 lbs. rhubarb, rinsed and cut into 1" slices
1 pint strawberries
1/2 cup sugar, or to taste
2 tbsp. all-purpose flour
1/4 cup diced candied ginger (optional)
1/2 tbsp. butter
- Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.
-
Place the rhubarb in another large bowl. Rinse the strawberries and dry
with a paper towel. Cut the leaves and the hulls from the strawberries.
Halve them; quarter them if they are very large. Add the berries to the
rhubarb and mix together. In a small bowl, whisk together the 1/2 cup
sugar and 2 tbsp. flour. Sift the mixture over the berry mix and toss
together. Stir in the candied ginger if using.
- Use the 1/2 tbsp.
butter to grease the bottom and sides of an 11"x7"x2" baking dish, or
another dish of roughly equivalent size, such as 9"x9"x2". Add the
berry mixture to the dish, spreading it even. Sprinkle the topping
evenly over the berry mixture. Cover the dish with aluminum foil,
tenting it so that it is not touching the topping.
Makes 6 servings.
December 2007
Habañero Chiles
If you want, you can try a flavor experiment – make the following recipe with a habañero, then make it again with a jalapeño (hopefully you will consider the recipe bears repeating). The habañero in the recipe makes up a very small proportion in the volume of the soup, but you will see that it has a disproportionately large influence on the resulting flavor. I think you will find that the habañero defies any substitution.
A word of warning: Use Gloves When Handling Habañeros. One careless moment, you rub your eye, and two months later you are looking at an unwelcome E.R. bill. I will forgo the gloves when I work with jalapenos or even Thai bird chiles, but NEVER with habañeros.
INGREDIENTS 1 medium-sized leek - Trim the end and the dark green parts from the leek. Quarter the leek lengthwise. Rinse it carefully under running water to remove all dirt and silt. Cut each leek quarter into diamonds by cutting it on a bias (on a diagonal). - This soup isn’t very hot, but if you want it even less hot, remove the ribs from the chile before you seed it. If you want it even hotter, use 2 habañeros.
Featured Recipe
Curried Pumpkin and Shrimp Chowder
3 tbsp. unsalted butter
2 tbsp. canola oil
1 large onion, cut into ¼” dice
2 celery ribs, cut into ¼” dice
2 carrots, cut into ¼” dice
1 habañero chile, stemmed, seeded, and minced
2 tbsp. finely grated fresh ginger
3 garlic cloves, minced
2 tbsp. curry powder
2 tbsp. finely grated fresh ginger
1 8 oz. bottle clam juice
3 cups chicken stock
3 ½ cups freshly roasted and pureed pumpkin
1 14 oz. can coconut milk
1 ½ lbs. cooked shrimp
1 cup ½ and ½
Kosher salt to taste, if needed
- In a heavy-bottomed stockpot, heat butter and oil on medium heat. When the butter is melted, add the onion, celery, and carrots and cook for 5 minutes. Add the leek and cook until the onions are translucent and the leeks are silky soft, about 10 more minutes. Add the habanero and cook for 2 minutes. Add garlic and cook 1 minute. Add curry powder and cook 1 minute. Add the ginger, clam juice, stock, pumpkin, and coconut milk, whisk together, and bring just to a boil. Immediately reduce to simmer and cook 10-15 minutes. Remove from heat and add shrimp and. Season with salt.
- If you wish to make this a reduced-fat soup, cut the butter, switch the coconut milk to reduced-fat coconut milk, and switch the 1/2 and 1/2 to nonfat 1/2 and 1/2.
- If you don’t want to roast your own pumpkin, you can substitute one 15-oz. can of pumpkin purée. Canned pumpkin puree will usually be heavier and thicker than homemade pumpkin purée.
Makes 6 servings.
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November 2007
Pandan Leaves
If you can't find fresh or frozen pandan leaves, or pandan extract, do not substitute - you just won't be getting the same flavor. Fresh pandan leaves can be bought in I like to use pandan syrup in a variety of ways - drizzled over ice cream, served with fried bananas, and, most of all, mixed into soda water. It can also be incorporated into other desserts in a variety of ways. Be careful not to use it with strong flavors, however, or its subtlety will be lost. INGREDIENTS 3 pandan leaves, 2 ½’ each, or equivalent amount - Wash the pandan leaves. Using kitchen shears, snip the leaves into 2” lengths. Add the leaf sections and the water to a small pot. Bring the water slowly to a simmer over medium heat. Simmer very gently for 5 minutes, reducing the heat if necessary. Remove from heat. Cover and let sit for 15 minutes. Makes 3 ½ cups.
Featured Recipe
Pandan Syrup
2 ½ cups water
2 ½ cups sugar
- Strain the water into a bowl. Gently press on the leaves to extract as much water as possible. Discard the leaves. Measure the remaining water – you should have very close to 2 ½ cups.
- Return the water to the pot and add the sugar. Turn the heat on high and whisk to dissolve the sugar. Once the syrup reaches a full boil, continue to cook for 1 minute. Remove from the heat and let cool. Refrigerate for up to 3 weeks.
October 2007
Israeli Couscous
Israeli couscous is, naturally, a couscous that comes from Israel. It is somewhat different from what we might consider "regular" North African couscous; it is a larger product, and instead of being rolled and sieved, it is pushed through a die and shaped into a pasta shape somewhat like a large peppercorn. North African couscous is cooked by steaming, unless it is the instant variety. Israeli couscous is being prepared in a number of different manners by American chefs. It can be boiled like a regular pasta, it can be cooked pilaf-style, or it can be made like a risotto. It is becoming easier and easier to find in American supermarkets, but if you can’t find it, the most similar products are Tunsian mhammas and Lebanese mograbiyah. You can also use Maftoul.
Israeli couscous is lightly toasted in the production process. I will often toast it even further before cooking it, accentuating its nutty character. In the following recipe, however, I have eliminated that step – I want the flavor of the salad to be herby and fresh rather than nutty and earthy. This salad is a lot like a tabbouleh spin-off without the bulgur.
You can find Israeli couscous at Holon Middle Eastern Foods and at ChefShop.
Featured Recipe
Israeli Couscous Salad
Ingredients
Kosher salt
6 tbsp. olive oil
1 1/8 cups Israeli couscous
4 tbsp. freshly squeezed lemon juice
¼ tsp. ground cardamom
¼ tsp. ground white pepper
1 cup seeded and small-diced English cucumber
1 cup seeded and small-diced Roma tomatoes
½ cup finely chopped Italian parsley
¾ cup finely chopped mint
¼ cup finely sliced scallions, white and light green parts only
-While the couscous is cooking, whisk together the remaining 5 tbsp. oil, lemon juice, cardamom, and white pepper in a large bowl. After the couscous has sat for 5 minutes, stir into the oil-juice dressing. Let sit for 5 minutes, stir again, and taste for salt, adding if necessary. Let cool to room temperature. Stir in cucumber, tomatoes, parsley, mint, and scallions. Adjust seasoning again. Serve at room temperature.
Serves 4-6.
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September 2007
Buffaloberry Jelly
Buffaloberries are wild berries that grow native in the Rocky Mountain region, from foothill elevations up to high mountain elevations.
The fruit can be either bright red or gold. The berries can be sweet, but are often quite tart and mouth-puckering. The jelly, of course, has been sweetened. Although the fruit can be found in abundance, they are commonly eaten up by birds and bears. Some culinary applications of these berries include jelly, dried fruit patties, and sauces. In times of yore, these berries are supposed to have been made into a sauce to serve with buffalo. Buffaloberry jelly can be found at Amazon and Montana Gift Corral.
Feeling industrious? Go to Kiowa Conservation District to make your own buffaloberry jelly.
-Combine jelly and vinegar in a small pot. Bring up to a simmer on medium-low heat. Simmer for 5 minutes. Take off the heat and set aside – you will want it to be slightly warm to glaze the trout. Serves 2 or 4.
Featured Recipe
Buffaloberry-Glazed Trout
Ingredients
1 5-oz. jar buffaloberry jelly (5 tbsp.)
½ tbsp. white wine vinegar
4 4-oz. trout fillets, skin on
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
8 tsp. finely chopped roasted and skinned hazelnuts
1 tbsp. canola oil
Lemon wedges
-Put a large rimmed baking sheet on the middle rack of the oven. Preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Season the skin and flesh sides of the trout fillets with salt and pepper. Brush the buffaloberry glaze over the flesh side of the fillets. Sprinkle the chopped hazelnuts over the fillets.
-When the oven is up to temperature, remove the baking sheet from the oven and add the canola oil to the baking sheet. Tilt the sheet to coat it evenly with the oil. Put the sheet back in the oven and heat for 1 minute. Take out of the oven and quickly transfer the trout to the baking sheet skin-side down. Put back in the oven and bake for 5 minutes, or until the trout is done and flakes easily. Remove from the oven and serve immediately. Serve with lemon wedges.
NOTE: The hazelnuts will work best if they are chopped pebble-sized.
NOTE: You can serve the trout bone-in or de-boned. If you want to de-bone the trout before you bake it, lay each trout fillet flesh-side up over a small bowl. The bones will stick up into the air, making it easier to see them. Remove with a pair of pliers or fish-bone tweezers.
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August 2007
Pasilla de Oaxaca
A pasilla de Oaxaca is a dried chile from the Oaxaca region of Mexico. It is hot and smoky with a slightly fruity quality that allows it to be paired with sweet ingredients. Until the last few years, it was fairly difficult to find in the U.S. It is not the same as what many sellers label as dried pasillas, even if they try to sell to you that way.Other than its use in sauces, it can also be stuffed, like a chile relleno. You can buy them at Amazon.com or from GourmetSleuth.com.
Featured Recipe
Chocolate-Raspberry-Pasilla Sauce
Ingredients
1 pasilla de Oaxaca (approx. 1/2 oz.)
8 oz. fresh or frozen raspberries (thawed if frozen)
1/2 cup heavy cream
3/4 cup sugar
6 oz. bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
-Split open the pasilla and remove the stem, seeds, and ribs. Heat a cast-iron skillet or griddle on medium heat and toast the chile on both sides until it is fragrant and is just starting to turn color. Be very careful not to let it burn, however, or your dessert sauce will taste like char. In a very small saucepot, bring 1/2 cup water to a boil. Submerge the chile, cover the pot, and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove from heat and let stand, covered, for another 15 minutes.
-Add chile and water along with raspberries to a food processor. Process until completely pureed. Using a fine-mesh sieve, strain raspberries seeds out of the puree, pressing down on the mixture to get as much as possible out of the sieve. Discard the raspberry seeds..
-In a small saucepot, add chile-raspberry mixture to cream and sugar. Heat on medium-high and bring to a boil, whisking with a Teflon-coated whisk to dissolve sugar. Once sauce comes to a boil, cook for 30 seconds. Remove from heat. Add chocolate and stir until melted and smooth. Allow to cool completely, then refrigerate until ready for use. Keeps for 1 week.
Makes approximately 2 1/2 cups.
-Clarissa Dickson Wright, Two Fat Ladies: Full Throttle
